Thursday 13 December 2012

Vietnam and Laos (Part 2)

Vietnam

Its natural attractions were very beautiful and impressive. It has fertile lands, lakes and rivers. Vast beaches, mountains, forests and caves too. The foods were diverse and delicious. Fruits and vegetables were abundant.

The traffic - people and transportation all intermingling – were fantastically chaotic! Every single crossing of the road was a test of confidence and an adventure. Later, the challenges could also be raised by renting bicycles or motorbikes.

My Vietnamese friend introduced me to his group of traveller friends; all of them gave a warm welcome. I joined their tour of the Mekong Delta at the start of my journey. In doing so, I was immersed into that part of authentic Vietnam. It was where I was “most local” in my exposure to their country, people, food and cultures. Being with them also eased me into my solo travel as it gave me a chance to acclimatise in a comfortable setting. I had a great time.

After I left them, I still had an awesome time, but my interactions with the locals (in tourism and hospitality, therefore in a business setting) were different. It was more aggressive... or pushy... relentless. The personalities and behaviours did not overwhelm me, as I was forewarned by other tourists last year. It made me very curious, as I did not really understand, so I thought it were the tourists whom exaggerated or were inexperienced. My interactions while I travelled across the country for almost a month confirmed the stresses expressed by many foreigners (and by many Vietnamese "returnees" whom settled overseas). Those (di)stresses were enough to make tourists leave and rush out of the country...!

I'm going to try but it would be hard to explain, without making the locals seem harsh. Not all of them were. I met many kind, helpful and gentle locals. Remember most times tourists are exposed only to traders and people in the tourism industry; those whom has something to sell to us. So the impressions we take home, unless given the opportunity to step out of our “boxes”, would be the treatment we received from those people. They are the main representatives of Vietnam to foreigners.




Most tourists felt like walking "dollar signs", and had to negotiate hard for EVERYTHING. We’ve accepted that. But prices always fluctuated and sometimes changed mid-transactions - we’ve accepted that too. Opportunities to charge more were always used. We were always taken elsewhere, not to where we asked or paid for. So we had to be alert, or be in a "discussion" (argument). We ended up frustrated too many times or we tried to be understanding, depending on how tired we were, our sense of humour, and our patience. Tourists became uneasy to let our guard down as we were always seen as "business". But we did not always get courteous service.  It was very very hard to get information outside the tours/services being offered. Some were intentionally given wrong information - done out of spite or out of mischief? - we'd never know, but surely disappointing.

The Vietnamese were also honest in letting us know we were bothering them. I actually liked this honesty, but the methods used to convey it were uncomfortable. We’ve experienced or seen fellow travellers brushed off, told off, raised-high-pitch voices at, and screamed at. I named the attitude "the switch" - where they turn on and off and on very quickly, at the snap of a finger. The tourists were treated like friends (some even told so) then quickly the conversation seemed hostile because he/she dared ask why the charges were more than the price quoted on the ticket; or mentioned he/she was not interested to buy a souvenir. It was quite disarming for tourists when we weren't used to that sort of short-fused interaction.... I also wondered if it was partly their reaction to "save face"?.... Better to act that they were right than to admit to being wrong...? I saw a mother and daughter literally thrown out of a bus, because the younger questioned why they were getting charged VND20,000 more than the price so obviously written on the bus window. She wasn't rude but stood her ground. I almost got thrown out with them being a fellow tourist (and she pulled me in for support but I knew it was a losing/wrong battle). I paid the extra $1. I didn't battle unless it was for more than $3 (which I did at a hotel that held my passport ransom).


To the Vietnamese’s defence, other countries also treat tourists in similar mannerisms. The "anything for that extra dollar" disposition…. We (tourists) were sensitive because we were likely more used to other business styles of bargaining, negotiating and sales. Maybe we preferred it more disguised and softened... or more forthright and precise. Same-same but different. That was why we used those recognisable companies that had computerised prices and transparent procedures. Especially those that had employees working solely for the company (not agents), for example, some well-known open-tour bus companies. We (tourists) assumed we could be provided safety/security for ourselves and our properties, and they followed systems we understood and were comfortable with. We knew what we were getting and got them. We didn’t have to think much and we could relax.



Laos 

Currently, the Lao are my most favourite people by country. They are most generous, honest, laid-back, gentle, respectful, kind and loving - to each other (fellow locals) and to tourists. They were always willing to help. They even could not stop themselves from helping! An example I could share was when my rented bicycle was slightly too tall for me. The man felt obliged to stop me (apologetic for disturbing me and because he did not speak English so he could not explain why he was stopping me!). He could have easily minded his own business and not given himself work. Instead he lowered the seat because he knew it would be more comfortable for me. And he smiled gladly to have been given a chance to help me out!! He was more focused on what he could give me, instead of what he could take from me. I received many selfless acts from strangers, and witnessed them giving it to their neighbours. My heart melted in thankfulness and glowed in appreciation.

... I could see a few signs where tourism and the effects of economy (the need to improve one's financial situation) were starting to change the behaviours and mindsets of groups/individuals. But, no one harrassed me with their trade. A handful tried to take advantage of a couple of situations where they had the upper-hand, but those events were quickly rectified by other locals whom were ready to rescue and showed the true nature of the community. I felt safe to leave my things unattended amongst the locals. They also never over-charged me. They always took only the set price for all tourists or less (maybe local price), even though I paid without negotiating/question. I tested this honesty several times and no one took advantage. By and large, the country and it's people are still "uncorrupted". I was glad I visited now and I pray the people do not lose their good qualities as a country.


The country is undeveloped. The roads are improving but, just like the rest of the country, still requiring a lot of work. Much of what the people needed were bought from neighbouring countries. I did not see any factories or manufacturing companies while I was there. The main industry seemed to be agriculture, farming, and tourism and hospitality.

The country was also very naturally beautiful with mountains, waterfalls, caves worthy of awe. You could feel at different speeds the heartbeats of the communities living along the arteries of the rivers. The smaller towns and villages were sleepy and relaxing. The main cities were busier but they still pulsated at a calmer pace compared to cities in surrounding countries. It is a very giving country. Even when I slowed down to it's rhythm it continued to give by filling in my love tank, simply by being itself. I could not help feel I was not giving anything back. My money was not enough.



3 comments:

  1. i love how your writing evokes your own temptation, your own passion for others enjoyment, yet misplaces, and at the same time frames what you want, and what you need.

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  2. You would love to have a chat with my mother. After her devorce she started travelling the world join smal groups similar to your trips. She visited primarily Arabia,.Black Africa, Australia and South America. What i got from her stories is that ongoing negotiations of prices are quite common - extra charges for tourists, too. The most extrem may be Arabia having no fixed prices on the street at all, it's all about negotiation, and China, where tourist are treated as cash cows already for signed prices. But nowhere - as far as my mother told me - does any nation what you reported.from Vietnam: disregarding payed agreements and extra charge during execution of thr deliver.

    Cheers,
    Ulrich

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  3. Would love to meet your mother! When is she visiting?

    I don't know how they were like with locals. I'd assume they treated the tourists differently coz they could get away with it.... Maybe, maybe not - take it with a grain of salt. It never happened to me elsewhere too, but I'm sure it happens in other countries too.

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